Baker’s Travertine Power Clean

CUSTOM ABRASIVE PROCESS: The Power Clean System has been specifically designed for Travertine as well as other types of natural stone. We don’t rely on just the standard materials and methods that our competitors use. We’ve tested standard abrasives, powders, and tools that are readily available for Marble. We found that just because it says on the label it works for Marble; it doesn’t always produce a good result for all natural stone. Our focus has always been to find and use the best resources available to do our job better than anyone. We’ve researched and found abrasives for sanding, powders for polishing, and tools for cleaning intended for other industries that also work very well for finishing & cleaning Travertine, Marble and other types of natural stone. Since Travertine is porous, it is important to use the appropriate abrasive impact to clean and beautify, but not open up more pores in the stone and cause damage. This is knowledge that comes with experience and paying close attention to results. Our Power Clean System has evolved into an unmatched and highly efficient method that cleans and beautifies Travertine and natural stone like no one else can.







Cleaning * Honing * Polishing * Sealing * Grinding * Finishes Available

CLEANING :

Using custom abrasives, we wet sand the stone to loosen up surface dirt and work loose grime and dirt accumulated in the grout lines, open pits, and fill areas. This creates slurry that is vacuumed back with a powerful truck mounted machine. The use of hot water extraction at 1200psi provides for the most effective cleaning method for your stone. Mops, buckets and shopvacs cannot come close to the cleaning power of a truck mounted machine. Effective and thorough cleaning is crucial for a smooth looking uniform finish and proper sealing.























HONING:

What does this really mean? A “honed” stone does not mean a “finished” stone.

Our competitors say “honing” is a process to finish stone. Tile retailers refer to a “honed” stone as one that has been “finished” at the factory, suggesting the stone needs no further care or maintenance and will look as beautiful on your floor as does the showroom sample.

We prefer the term “custom abrasive process” because that is far more descriptive and accurate. The custom abrasive process is designed to be the most effective without causing damage by unnecessarily opening up air pockets that turn into holes. We use lower grit levels with more sanding impact which will clean the stone & finish the Travertine to a soft sheen with glowing reflection. What our competitors refer to as a “honed” finish, we describe as a “satin glow finish”.













POLISHING :

Using finer abrasives, we achieve a very clean, highly reflective, shiny finish. The shine intensity can range from a” custom medium shine” to a very mirror like “high gloss finish. “ The amount of fill (see fill effect photo below), open pores, blade marks will affect the shine uniformity especially when going with shinier finishes. Marble looks its best when finished to a high gloss.






















SEALING:

We use high grade penetrating (impregnating) solvent based sealers. Their function is to absorb into the pores of the stone and fill them up. Tight pores help keep spills on the surface so they won’t soak in. Although penetrating sealers are not bulletproof, they are essential in keeping acidic spills on the surface to prevent acids from eating away the underlying layers. This insures the resulting etch, or dull spot, can be easily buffed out with the proper abrasives. Common liquids containing acids are: Citrus, vinegar, wine, soda, some perfumes and medicines.

While topcoat/surface sealers are appropriate for some types of natural stone, they ARE NOT RECOMMENDED for Travertine, Marble or Limestone.






















GRINDING :

Using the highest impact abrasives (lowest grits) this method is to remove a measurable amount of stone. Uneven tile edges (lippage) can be evened out using this method but not without drawbacks. The ground stone will forever look more “weathered” than the surrounding tiles, permanentaly round edges, and will most likely open up more air pockets (pores). Depending on the density of your stone and severity of lippage, our grinding process is the most efficient available. Replacement is the recommended solution, but not always possible.



















ETCHING:

Travertine, Marble and Limestone are all subject to etching. Etches are small scratches that create a dull spot on the stone. Mostly caused by spills containing any type of acid: Citrus, wine, alcohol, vinegar, pet accidents all contain acids. Acid eats calcium carbonate found in these stones and the result is an etch. The natural chemical reaction is almost immediate and can vary in severity depending on acid level, how long it sits, and the size. Penetrating sealers guard against the acid from eating through layers of the stone, thereby keeping the etch on top so it can be buffed out again during regular professional maintenance.











(Abrasives and techniques will vary according to grade, density, porosity and installation of the stone. Travertine, Marble and Limestone have different characteristics, use different approaches, and provide varying results due to being a naturally occurring product)

SATIN GLOW FINISH:

A soft subtle sheen for a clean and uniform look. Rids the stone of the dull chalky appearance so common with newly installed Travertine.
















CUSTOM MEDIUM SHINE FINISH:

This finish is definitely a shine and has a range depending on your shine taste. This finish brings out colors and depth and the true beauty of Travertine. A Medium Shine is often a happy compromise when wanting more than a satiny sheen, but not a full glossy finish.









HIGH GLOSS FINISH:

We use the finest abrasives to achieve the glossiest finish possible for your stone. This shine is like turning your floor into a work of art, something to be noticed as much as the art on your walls






































Cleaning * Honing * Polishing * Sealing * Grinding

The cleaning, finishing, and sealing methods for Marble are very similar to what we do for Travertine and Limestone.


Some Important Notes on Marble:

Marble is a denser stone than Travertine which means less air pockets and less fill overall. It comes in a very wide variety of colors and usually looks its best at a medium high shine or high gloss polish. The very low amount of filler provides for a very clear and consistent shine throughout the Marble floor.

























Cleaning * Honing * Polishing * Sealing *

The cleaning, finishing & sealing methods for Limestone are very similar to what we do for Travertine and Marble. (Click here to return to Travertine Services)


Some Important Notes on Limestone:

Limestone is sometimes thought to be Marble or even Travertine, but it’s neither. Limestone is a very tricky floor to finish due in large part to being a softer stone. Knowing the right abrasives to use is key to a good result.

The Power Clean System for Limestone floors utilizes a very light custom abrasive to remove light scratches and etches. Generally, Limestone is factory polished before installation, but even new Limestone floors may need to be re-polished due to the standard installation process. We then sand the floor to a satin glow, custom medium polish, or a super high polish, depending on the customer’s preferences.

Limestone is more absorbent than Marble or Travertine, although all natural stone is porous. Limestone’s capillaries, which are similar to microscopic straws, will pull water deep into the stone and cause permanent damage including etching and staining. Baker’s Power Clean uses only the best penetrating sealant, which prevents damage as much as possible, but even top quality sealant cannot fully protect forever. If your floor is damaged, you may require a more extensive abrasive process to restore it before the finishing process is commenced.









































Cleaning * Stripping * Sealing

CLEANING:

The Power Clean method for cleaning existing Slate tile will depend on its current condition and what type of sealer was previously used. These are general methods and results will vary.

Bare (uncoated) Slate: We use light abrasives and a cleaning solution to loosen the dirt and debris from the stone and grout.

Previously coated Slate where the coating is still generally intact: We will use appropriate grit strength to clean surface dirt without removing the existing coating and prepare for a recoat with surface sealer.

Previously coated Slate with coating breakthrough and bare spots: This will usually require stripping of the existing coating as much as possible and aggressive cleaning before it is ready for a re-application of a surface or penetrating sealer.

We use our powerful truck-mounted cleanup machine to remove slurries created during the cleaning and stripping steps. The use of a powerful vacuum system such as ours is key to providing the best cleaning possible and insuring a clean and even sealer application.





















SEALING:

Two sealing options: Penetrating sealer or a topcoat/surface sealer:

Penetrating sealers are clear and soak into the Slate with no change to appearance. The function of the penetrating sealer is to fill the pores and make the Slate less absorbent, keeping spills to the surface only. Keep in mind that all natural stone is porous, staining is still possible depending on what is spilled.

Penetrating sealers mixed with oil will darken & enrich the various colors in Slate but won’t add any shine. Think of it as moisturizer for the Slate. A penetrating sealer will help keep liquid spills on top of the stone rather than soaking in. It is important to note that penetrating sealers are not bulletproof, and all natural stone is porous. Staining can still occur depending on what is spilled.

Topcoat/Surface sealer will always impart some shine ranging from semi-gloss to high gloss. First we apply a large molecule chemical resistant sealer. This soaks into the Slate as much as possible to prevent water penetration and stains. Then we apply several coats of acrylic sealer that is chemical sensitive. This becomes a working surface as long as it is cleaned properly and recoated before the sealer has broken through and bare tile is exposed. It is very important that topcoat sealers are maintained properly or they will lose restorability. In some cases the coating may need to be stripped. Stripping is removing as much of the coating as possible and makes restoration more difficult as well as adding expense to the project.

**Important to note that topcoat/surface sealers do not last as long outside due to heat, sun, and water exposure. Maintaining the coating is the best way to protect the Slate tiles from erosion.

Cleaning * Stripping * Sealing

CLEANING:
The Power Clean method for cleaning Saltillo will vary depending on the current condition of the tile and how well it has been maintained. We have the knowledge to use the correct abrasives to clean the Saltillo but not damage the clay. These are general methods, and results will vary.











New Saltillo: A very light custom abrasive process is used. Slurry removal is through a powerful truck-mounted machine for a very thorough cleaning step.
Older Saltillo previously sealed with a penetrating sealer only: We will scrub and lightly sand the surface of the tile safely using appropriate grit strength. The cleaning solution is very aggressive and will remove as much discoloring and staining as possible. Truck mounted equipment will wash away all the slurries generated during the abrasive process.

Older Saltillo previously sealed with a topcoat sealer: The abrasives used will depend on the condition of the existing coating, whether it is intact, or breaking down exposing the clay or showing deterioration of the clay. In some cases, the coating may need to be stripped off as best possible and then recoated. If the clay has eroded in areas, the discoloring can generally be improved after a good clean and recoat, but not erased.



















SEALING:
Two sealing options: Penetrating or Topcoat Sealers
Penetrating sealers are clear and soak into the clay with no change to appearance. They help keep moisture from soaking in, but keep in mind Saltillo is clay and clay is very, very absorbent. Staining and discoloring will still eventually occur but to a lesser degree than unsealed Saltillo.

Penetrating sealers mixed with oil will darken & enrich the Saltillo but won’t add any shine. Think of it as moisturizing the clay. Penetrating sealers help to prevent water erosion and staining but Saltillo is so porous even after being sealed it can still be discolored.










Topcoat/Surface sealer will always impart some shine ranging from semi-gloss to high gloss. First we apply a large molecule chemical resistant sealer. This soaks into the tile as much as possible to prevent water penetration and stains. Then we apply several coats of acrylic sealer that is chemical sensitive. This becomes a working surface as long as it is cleaned properly and recoated before the sealer it is broken through and the tile is exposed. It is very important that topcoat sealers are maintained properly or they will lose restorability. In some cases the coating may need to be stripped. Stripping is removing as much of the coating as possible and makes restoration more difficult as well as adding expense to the project .
















**Important to note that topcoat/surface sealers do not last as long outside due to heat, sun, and water exposure. Maintaining the coating is the best way to protect the clay tiles from erosion.




















































Cleaning Process
The Power Clean system for Flagstone utilizes a medium to heavy custom abrasive processes. These processes not only scrub the Flagstone but remove a small amount of the surface to expose fresh stone. This is also very effective on mineral deposits, efflorescence and stains. During abrasive processes truck-mounted equipment is utilized to clean up the slurry generated. Due to the porosity of Sandstone oil or rust stains can be permanent.

Penetrating Sealer
Penetrating sealer soaks into the stone to reduce the porosity. This helps to prevent water erosion, efflorescence, and staining. Penetrating sealer does not change the appearance of the stone. This is a good method for the interior or exterior. Considerations are the Sandstone is still left with a rough texture. The natural rough texture of Sandstone can make maintenance a challenge due to the sticky nature of rough surfaces.

Penetrating Sealer with Oil
Oil sealing has more effective protective properties than penetrating seal and will darken and enrich the tones of the stone. Think of it as moisturizer for Sandstone. This is an excellent method for the exterior but considerations for the interior are; odor from the oil and the Sandstone is still left with a rough it texture. Professional maintenance required clean and reseal

Interior
Topcoat sealing is when several layers of sealer are applied to build up a protective coating on the surface of the stone. This gives the stone a shiny appearance. Top of sealing will also reduce some of the texture to give the Sandstone a smoother feel to the touch and is much easier to keep clean. This is an excellent method for interior Flagstone but is not recommended for the exterior.

Topcoat sealing is a commitment and should not be taken lightly. If the topcoat is not cleaned properly and resealed regularly it may lose its ability to be fully restored. Badly worn coatings (bare spots, exposed stone) may require stripping. Stripping the coating refers to removing as much of the coating as possible sometimes complete coating removal is not possible. If the topcoat is cleaned right and recoated before damage is done then it will be able to be restored to its original appearance. As a general guideline, professional maintenance should be done every one to three years. The time between services will depend on homeowner maintenance and household traffic.























Cleaning * Grout Re-Coloring

CLEANING:
The Power Clean method for Ceramic and Porcelain tile is pretty straightforward. We use our custom abrasive system to clean the surface of the tile and the grout lines. Since Ceramic and Porcelain tiles are non-porous, they do not require sealing. Ceramic/Porcelain tiles cannot be buffed to change the appearance as natural stone can. Grout is very porous and absorbent. Our powerful truck mounted clean up machine is very effective at cleaning grout. Due to its absorbent nature, some grout staining can be permanent.

GROUT RE-COLORING:
Clear penetrating sealers do very little to protect and close up the pores of grout. It can never hurt to apply it, but there is a better way. We use a siliconized acrylic Concrete stain, color matched to your original grout shade to not only seal the grout, but make it look brand new. This sealant is applied after a thorough cleaning with our system and only takes a few hours to dry. This will make regular maintenance easier and keep the grout looking clean and new. This service can be applied to grout between natural stone as well.
































Cleaning * Sealing

CLEANING:
The Power Clean method for cleaning Canterra will vary depending on the manufacturing quality, the color, and factory blemishes. Also very important is the cleanliness of the installation. Canterra is very absorbent and will absorb the grout color and can cause deep staining. Care during the grout process is key to clean edges. We use several custom abrasive steps to clean depending on the situation. Our powerful truck mounted vacuum system sucks back all the slurry created during the cleaning step.
















SEALING:
We use and recommend top grade penetrating sealers for Canterra. The penetrating sealer will help keep moisture from soaking in. Using an oiled penetrating sealer will darken the existing tones. Topcoat/surface sealers are problematic not a good choice for Canterra.